Sometimes the story is better than the experience
After a night lost within Death Valley, I stumble upon a
campsite at 10:15. It’s too dark, too eerie,
and too hot to set up camp, so I am resolved to spend the night in the car. At about 2:30 a.m. two tall bearded men start
getting closer and closer to my vehicle.
At first, it seems like they are lost, then it seems like they are
plotting an attack, and when one of them brushed up against my taillight, I decide
it’s time to turn on the car and drive away.
I freak out, try to start the car in a hurry, and disable the
starter. My car won’t start, won’t lock,
and I am in the middle of Death Valley with two tall strangers looming in the half
moon lit sky. I begin to freak out,
wonder if I should call the cops, hundreds of miles away from cops, wonder if I
should call AAA, not terribly appropriate to call AAA at 3 am. Last thought is to call home. I decided better not to scare my
parents. I finally get my car to lock,
and I count Mississippi’s until I pass out.
At 5 a.m., I wake up to dawn’s light, and at 7 a.m. am greeted by two
post college photographers with scrubby unshaven beards, head to toe decked in
camera gear apologizing if they startled me while they were taking pictures of
shooting stars ( the shooting stars I saw that night were phenomenal even amidst
my paranoia). I freaked out over
nothing, but that will forever be the night that my car broke down in the
middle of Death Valley with two ominous strangers hovering around me.
Flash forward to night two in Joshua Tree. I had always heard great tidbits from the few
visitors who made it all the way down to Joshua Tree. As I rolled into the park and found my
campground, I was just in time to set up for sunset shots, which are supposed
to be spectacular within the park. Three
men approached me, one I had recognized from the night before in Death
Valley. He spoke first and said he
remembered me from the night before; I was wearing this or that. I parted ways to get to the perfect spot to
take dusk pictures. They followed me,
but the other two disappeared and it was the one friendly stranger who asked me
why I was by myself, where was I staying for the night, told me I was pretty
tried to hug me and then when I shrugged the hug told me my shirt was nice and
began to pet it. In retrospect, he was
probably just on mushrooms trying to enjoy the intensity of Joshua Tree and get
a little high with a few friends. And if
I was with a few friends and a little less sober or in a familiar place, I may
not have freaked out. However, when you
are in butt fucking Egypt at dusk and you’re a petite young woman alone,
sometimes to error on the side of caution is best. Since there were only two open campgrounds in
the park, and he knew my car, I broke down and called home. An hour and a half later, I checked into a
Homewood Suites in Palm Desert. That
will forever be the night that I narrowly escaped a psychedelic predator.
I think the reason people want to travel to places like
Death Valley and Joshua Tree is for the story.
Names like “Devil’s Golf Course” and “Inferno” strike up story worthy
imagery. Even the name “Death Valley”
with temperature in the 130s elicits a certain unworldly severity.
I visited Scotty’s
castle, a phantom castle in the middle of nowhere in the northern reaches of
Death Valley. A castle built on fables,
playful deceit, and an unlikely friendship between a Chicago millionaire and a
swindling cowboy who swore the castle was his own and a gold mine was buried below
its foundation. This castle enticed
travelers to visit the area, supposedly rich with gold and 180 degrees in the
shade, and to meet Scotty, the devious, embellishing cowboy with a lifetime
full of stories and adventures about this remote but mystifying place.
All these years later, people still venture through this area
for a chance to experience their own story.
Whether it’s a young woman escaping night villains or a young man
getting stoned in the mystifying desert of Joshua Tree or two photographers in
search of the perfect shooting star or perfect sunrise, there is something
spectacular that in the age of the internet there are still places where
mystery exist and adventures are uncharted.
That said if you want the highlights and low lights without
the sweat and gas mileage; here is my take.
I would take the time to drive through Death Valley, preferably close to
sunset or sunrise. I would watch dawn or
dusk at Zabriski Point or Sand Dunes. I
would make sure to visit the Sand Dunes, Artist’s Drive, Badwater Basin, Devil’s
Golf Course (unless you have seen salt fields in spectacular places like
Chilean desert). I would probably skip
the rest. If you find yourself in the
park for longer period, the tour of Scotty’s Castle is entertaining and the
ranger does a great job bringing the story to life. I
would also drive through the Mojave Desert, just spectacular roadside
vistas. As for Joshua Tree, I was only
there a short afternoon and evening, but I just didn’t get it. Not to mention the creeper and the less than
remarkable sunset. I guess I would make
sure to plan visit around astrologically significant dates. That said, everyone’s adventure is different,
and if I was writing from the perspective of the mushroom creeper, I might
describe Joshua Tree as a life highlight.
As I spend a lot, a lot of time alone in the last few weeks,
I am increasingly aware of how each person has their own story, their own life
events, their own hardships and triumphs that make up their identity. I am also aware that is a spectacular moment
in my own story, a nine week chapter that is leaving a lifetime of impressions.